In this article you will find all you need to confidently set up a new, recessed, medicine cabinet. The finished project will leave you with a flush to the wall feature that is common in higher end houses, but often left out in track or development style homes.
While the tools required for this job are a bit more than a screwdriver and a few toggle bolts, the finished job will more than justify the rental or purchase of these tools.
# Pencil
# Level / Straight Edge
# Razor-knife
# Reciprocating Saw with 3-1/2” blade (can be rented)
# Screwdriver (electric preferred)
# Circular Saw (hand saw will suffice)
# 2×4 six to eight foot
# 1-1/2” Drywall Screws (10-20)
# 12p nails (6-8)
After deciding on the location for your new medicine cabinet, lay out your cut lines using the exact dimensions of your new cabinet. With your first horizontal line being at six foot (industry standard), lay out the rest below there.
With the razor-knife follow your layout lines making sure to cut through the drywall. Remove the piece of drywall to expose the rough opening (R/O) for the medicine cabinet. The object from here is to remove any wall studs in this opening and to fill in (pack) around the edges. There should be no wiring in the way, by building code they are lower. If any run vertical on interfering stud(s) this can be handled as you go.
To remove any vertical studding in the opening, put a 1-1/2” mark up from the opening on the stud(s) and likewise on the bottom. With the reciprocating saw, plunge cut through the stud at your mark. Be careful. Keep the plunge cut neat and at a minimum. This will keep the finishing touch-up simple.
With these cuts done properly you should have the drywall extending an 1-1/2” past the end of the vertical stud(s). In the case of a stud falling at one of the vertical edges, either shift R/O to allow room, or, in the event exact placement is critical for aesthetic reason, remove needed section of stud as above. If any drywall nails protrude into the R/O after removing the cut pieces, DO NOT PULL THEM. Cut them flush with a pair of Diagonal Pliers (dykes). This preserves the finish of the wall opposing the room you’re working in.
At this point, cut blocking (horizontal) to span from stud to stud inside of the wall. In the case you live in the western United States where interior demise walls are frequently framed out in 24 inch centers, run the blocking past the opening as far as you can, opening dictates this. Fasten (nail) blocking to the stubs of the vertical studding inside of the wall. Cut and install vertical blocks, keeping them flush with drywall edges. To fasten, toenail to horizontal blocking
with screws, taking care to counter sink screw heads to facilitate smooth insertion of cabinet into the opening.
To ease installation remove cabinet door. Depending on the style of medicine cabinet, some have a “nailing flange” others simply fasten by screwing through the sides. In the case of the latter, keep cabinet edge flush to outside of drywall / wall surface to fasten.
With flange style apply supplied trim after fastening in place. With others, screw drywall to blocking (1-2 per block) then install cabinet. After fastening take care and use razor-knife to put slight bevel cut to the drywall surrounding cabinet. Keep it a 16th-8th inch in width. Neatly caulk. Re-hang the door, step back and admire.
Taking your time and making clean, precise cuts to the drywall surface keeps any cosmetic finish work to a minimum. The plunge cuts made to the studs through the drywall are easily patched with a dab of caulk; they tend to be concealed by the cabinet door.